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Our journey to the east uncovers an urban jungle delight.  From dim sum to mountainous peaks, traditional wet markets to golden sand beaches, there's something for everyone in this far east gem.


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Last updated May 2020
Jono and I touched down in Hong Kong for Christmas 2019.  We spent two weeks in this amazing city at the height of the Hong Kong Protests.  There were some concerns of this trip but we decided to go ahead and to our benefit, the city was calm and quieter.  Our friends in Hong Kong actually enjoyed the retrieve, meaning they longer had to queue in restaurants or stuck in once huge crowds in public transport and streets.

For me, this was a journey of rediscovering my family's home roots particularly in the New Territories.  I fell in love with the old traditional market town of Tai Po, a mainstay of many Hakka families and our home over the next two weeks.  Tai Po is bursting with life, albeit a more older generation.  Lovely, energetic elderly people roam around the Tai Ming Lane Square surrounded with authentic Chinese bakeries, restaurants and shops.

Escape on a day trip to the giant Tian Tan Buddha or go on a bike ride along the coast of Plover Cove, read on for some of the best experiences Hong Kong has to offer.
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Top Activities
Bike Ride from Tai Po Market to Plover Cove

We met up with our good friends Mandy, Tony and Jo in Tai Po Market to hire bikes for our ride.  You can hire the bikes here and drop them off at the other end of the destination.  Our route covered beautiful landscapes from Tai Po Market, Tai Po Waterfront, Beverly Hills, Tai Mei Tuk, across the Plover Clove Reservoir to Pak Sha Tau Island for some breathtaking views.  Then we cycled all the way back to Tai Mei Tuk where we dropped off our bikes and had barbecue on the coast.

By Day, By Night
Victoria Peak (by Tram) & Tsim Sha Tsui

Head to Victoria Peak before sunset to enjoy both light and dark views over the Hong Kong skyline.  The Victoria Peak Tram will transport you up the summit whilst offering epic views of the city.  When you get to the Peak Tower, stay until sunset and enjoy the views at night.  On the same day, we made our way to Tsim Sha Tsui for the nightly Light Show.  The promenade here offers magnificent views of Hong Kong Island.
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Food
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Our Top Eats

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Baked Bun with Barbecue Pork, Tim Ho Wan
Hong Kong is a foodie's delight, there is something for everyone.  We've had lots of tasty food so I've tried to narrow it down to a few.  I know for sure I have missed a lot of great eateries but these ones below have definitely stood out.  I've tried to pick foods from different categories from dim sum to barbecue roasts.
For vegan we tried Eat Well Canteen at the Old Tai Po Police Station, read more below.
  1. Dim Sum
    Tim Ho Wan & One Dim Sum
    THW in multiple locations (website) ; ODS is at 209A-209B Tung Choi St, Mong Kok
    Tim Ho Wan is a famous establishment with five restaurants throughout Hong Kong.  Said to be "the world's cheapest Michelin-star restaurant", the best dish was the 'Baked Bun with Barbecue Pork', similar to 'Char Sui Baos' but in a delightful puff pastry.  Expect long queues and to be seated near other diners.  For all other dim sum dishes, we also recommend One Dim Sum.  There is a cool wall art on display.

  2. Chinese Bakeries
    Independent Bakeries throughout Tai Po and Hong Kong
    Various location
    For a light lunch or snack, Chinese Bakeries are a godsend.  I particularly love the 'Bolo Baos' (Pineapple Buns), light and crispy on the outside, fluffy inside.  They're perfect when freshly out of the oven and cheap.

  3. Roast Duck at Macau
    Chan Kong Kei Roast Duck 陳光記燒臘店
    Edificio Milionario, R. do Dr. Pedro Jose Lobo, Macau
    Arguably the best barbecue roasts we've had in a long time.   We were just lucky to have a table (albeit shared with a nice Chinese couple).  We ordered roast duck and pork.  Both taste incredible.  The duck was juicy, the pork crackling was crispy, both had a unique peppery seasoning.  I wanted to go back for more.

  4. Vegan 🌱
    Eat Well Canteen at the Old Tai Po Police Station
    Old Tai Po Police Station, 號 綠 匯 學 苑, 11 Wan Tau Kok Ln, Hong Kong (website)
    Set in the beautifully restored old police station, this little vegan cafe is cute and run by friendly staff.  There is a nice little selection of dishes to choose from the menu including veggie balls, nuggets, rice and soup.  We got a bit of everything and was very impressed by the meals.  There is a nice chill-out vibe to the place.  Despite good dishes we were still a little peckish in the end.  When finished, take a stroll around the old police station and gardens.


  5. Portuguese Tarts at Macau
    ​Margaret's Cafe e Nata
    17A Rua Alm Costa Cabral R/C Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, Macau
    As well as casinos, Macau is famous for it's Portuguese influence including the delightful Portuguese Tarts.
    ​There was a long queue and the tarts were fresh and hot (be careful).  There is a couple of outdoor seating to munch down the delicacy.  Apparently, another good albeit close contest is Margaret's ex husband 'Lord Stow's Bakery'.  We have yet to try.

  6. Hot Pot
    Haidelao
    Various location (website)
    Hot Pot enthusiasts (ie. Mandy) will love this Chinese establishment.  It is very popular with the locals and it's restaurants are beautifully furnished and provide plenty of entertainment (noodle spinning anyone?).  There is a wide selection meat and veg; the customer service is top notch.  There's even a robotic waiter.

  7. ​Xiaolongbao
    Din Tai Fong
    Various location (website)
    Famous for its ​Xiaolongbaos, Din Tai Fong is good dinner stop.  We met up with Tony and Jo who ordered a wide selection of dishes to try.  The Xiaolongbaos are delicious soup filled dumplings.  There is also a wide selection of rice and noodle dishes.

  8. Street Food
    Tai Po Market Food Court
    Tai Po, New Territories
    Street Food culture is huge but not as big as it used to be in Hong Kong.  So, it was great to find that across from our accommodation, Tai Po Market still served street food from traditional food stalls.  The market is buzzing with locals and the food stalls were pretty packed.  Deciding which one to go for was tricky so we just looked at what was on offer at the stalls.  We've had delicious Beef Fried Noodles, Omelettes, Pork Chops and refreshingly tasty Iced Milk Teas.

  9. Chinese Fast Food
    Cafe de Coral
    Various location (website)
    Almost forgot to mention this fast food eaterie.  It's like a fancy McDonalds but with Chinese food.  You can order from the touchscreens (as they have in McD's), pay and seat while you food is being prepared.  Your number is called and you pick up your tray and voila!  Delicious Chinese street food like Crispy Roast Pork, Char Sui Pork, Roast Duck or even a Special Fried Rice.  This eaterie is all over Hong Kong and popular in the weekends with families.
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Key Information

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Hong Kong Island
Kowloon
New Territories
Macau
Hong Kong Dollar
See latest exchange rate here

Attractions
Our Must Visit Places

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  1. Tian Tan Buddha
    aka Big Buddha in Ngong Ping, Lantau Island.
  2. Macau Island
    Portuguese influenced island by ferry.
  3. Mong Kok
    Buzzing street markets and shopping centres.
  4. Stanley & Repulse Bay
    Escape the city to golden sand beaches.
  5. Wong Tai Sin Temple
    Tranquil shrine in the middle of the city.
  6. Tsim Sha Tsui & Light Show
    Promenade with epic views on Victoria Harbour.
  7. Kowloon Walled City Park
    Historic park with museum.
  8. Tai Po Market
    Old market town in the new territories.
  9. Sham Shui Po
    Street markets and food stalls aplenty.
  10. Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery
    And a million steps to get there.

Safety
How safe is
​Hong Kong?

We travelled at the height of the Hong Kong protest and despite the situation, we still managed to travel around safely.  Just stay cautious and do not travel to areas where there are protests taking place.

We were caught up in the Tsim Sha Tsui Christmas Eve protests.  Roads blocked and metro stations closed.  Police blocked off main roads.  It was surreal.

Generally, Hong Kong is safe.  Check local news sites for latest information.

Tip
The Octopus Card

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The Octopus Card is your passport to everything in Hong Kong.  Not only does it work as a travel pass, its pays for your shopping, laundry, restaurants, cafes, in fact it is accepted as a main method of payment in virtually everywhere.  You can top-up the cards in any MTR station.

Must Visit
Macau

While you're in Hong Kong, it's definitely worth booking ferry tickets to experience the meandering streets and vast history of Macau.  Of course it's worth visiting one of it's many casinos (especially as you get a free bus ride in to town).  The large dominant skyscrapers over look the tiny cobbled streets inspired by the Portuguese.  It goes without saying that the Portuguese Tart is a local delicacy and must be tried.  We also had one of our best Barbecue roasts ever.  I've mapped out all the best food in our Top Eats.
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Leave a comment

Have you tried any of the places mentioned above?  Perhaps you would like to suggest further recommendations.  Let us know what you think. Drop us a comment below.

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#HongKong


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About me


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About me

Ever since my first proper backpack back in 2004, I have craved new experiences and cultures from around the world.  You can follow my journey through the videos, photography and journals all captured here online.

Read my latest blog post here.
Learn more about me here.
Contact me here
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